Shoe-sewing machine



Oct. 16, 1928.

J. H. REED SHOE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed March 10. 1922 OJ EA 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVEN FEIY ,a wuw v .Mw JMMM J. H. REED SHOE SEWING MACHINE Oct. 16, 1928.

4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Original Filed March 10. 1922 Oct. 16,' 1928 1,688,056

J. H. REED SHOE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed March 10. 1922 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 Oct 16, 1928. 1,688,056

J. H. REED SHOE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed March 1v922 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 v INVEN'i'EI I/I WWd/M MP Patented Oct. 16, 1928.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

4 JAMES H. REED, OI SWAMPSCOTT, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGN- MENTS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATIOK, F PATERSON, JERSEY,

A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

.snOE-sEwINe MACHINE.

Application filed March 10, 1922, Serial No. 542 666. Renewed April 12, 1927.

This invention relates to lock stitch sewing machines of the'general type shown in my prior applications for Letters Patent, Serial No. 439,225, filed January 22, 1921, Serial Nos. 491,694 and 491,695, filed August 12,

1921, (the two last named applications being divisions ,of the first) and Serial No. 491,897,

filed August 13, 1921; said prior-applications disclosing and claiming certain features of the mechanism shown and described'but not claimed herein. The present case is also, in

- part, a continuation of my application, Serial No. 517 ,583, filed November 25, 1921, as to the subject-matter of the latter, which it ineludes.

The machine above referred to, and shown in several difierent forms in the applications mentioned, is adapted primarily for sewing McKay shoes, but is also capable of use for man other purposes, as, for example. for stitc iing along the shanks on the inside of shoes of the Goodyear welt type. Such a machine sews a lock stitch seam and has a straight hooked needle and a shuttle supplying a shuttle thread on the outer side of the sole of the shoe, while within the shoe there is a cooperating horn provided with an oscillating looper or whirl supplying a cop or needle thread.

In the manufacture .of McKay shoes, as well as in certain operations on shoes of other types, it is desirable that the outer sole, the upper, and the inner sole (when an inner sole is employed) be drawn so tightly together by the stitching as to make the several layers of the work and the stitches practically unitary and relatively immovable. Otherwise, under conditions of wear, friction is developed between the layers of leather and between the leather and thethread, such friction ultimately destroying the stitches and permitting the seams to open and the shoe to come apart. 7 v

The present invention has for its general object to provide an improved machine adapted to. Operate within a McKay. or other shoe and capable of forming a very tight and otherwise wholly satisfactory seam of the character above referred to, said machine being of a very simple construction, considering itscapabilities, and being also convenientas well as reliable in its operation.

The accomplishment of this general object and shuttle case.

involves numerous incidental problems, the

solution of which constitutes the more particular objects of the invention. These objects, together with means whereby the inventlon may be carried into eifect, will best beunderstood" from the following description of a preferred embodiment thereof illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a side elevation, partly broken away, of substantially the complete machine,

the parts being shown in the positions assumed thereby afterv the needle loop has been formed and drawn through the work.

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the head of the machine, looking from the side opposite that shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a front elevation of the head on a slightly enlar ed scale, this figure, together with Fig. 2, s owing the parts in the positions assumed thereby at the beginning of the cycle of operations.

Fig. 4 is a front elevation, on a further enlarged scale, of the stitch forming and feedmg devlces, showing the positions of the parts after the needle has drawn a loop through the material, and the shuttle has gommenced its forward movement to take said Fig. 5 is a detail illustrating the cooperation of the needle and whirl.

Fig. 6 is a vertical section, partly in elevation, of the stitch forming instrumentalities and other parts adjacent the stitch forming oint the parts being in the positions shown in Figs. 2 and 3.

Fig. 7 is a horizontal section on the line 77, and Fig. 8 is a vertical section on the line 8-8 of Fig. 3, of the feeding mechanism.

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary elevation of the feed point and the mechanism for moving it laterally to feed the work.

Fig. 10 is a fragmentary elevation of the feed point and the mechanism for moving it into and out of engagement with the work.

Fig. 11 is a bottom plan View of the shuttle Fig. 12 is an enlarged sectional view of the work, showing the completed stitch.

Fig. 13 is an enlarged plan view of the Work, illustrating the operation of the combined awl, feed point, and channel former.

Fig. 14 is an enlarged front elevation, and Fig. 15 an enlarged side elevation of the feed point.

Fig. 16 is a detail plan view of the thread clamp and thread measurer.

Fig. 17 is a fragmentary plan view of the mechanism for operating the thread clamp and thread measurer.

Fig. 18 is a detail plan view and Fig. 19 is a detail front elevation of the takeup.

f Fig. 20 is a detail plan view of'the presser oot.

The machine in general.

The general organization of the machine and the cooperation of its several groups of mechanism will first be outlined and the construction of these mechanisms thereafter described more in detail.

The main frame of the machine comprises a base supporting a horn or work support 26 and from which rises an upright 27 carrying at its'top the framework 28 of the head. The horn 26 is of a size and shape to render it capable of being inserted in the toe of a shoe, and is mounted in a bearing 29 secured to the front of the base 25 at the top of the latter. The horn 26' is provided with a journal portion 30 rotatably mounted in the bearing 29 in such manner as to permit said horn to be turned as the sewing progresses. The work,

I which is designated as a whole by the letter A,

is shown more particularly in Figures 6 and 12 as comprising a McKay shoe having an upper p, and outsole g, and an insole 1" connected by stitches s. The needle 31, which is above the work, is straight and is formed adjacent its pointed lower end with an open loop engaging hook. Within the tip of the horn 26, and therefore below the work or at the opposite side thereof from the needle 31, is a looperor whirl-32 which is fotatably mounted to oscillate in said horn, and is provided with an eccentric thread opening 33 to receive the cop or needle thread 34 and an axial opening 35 to receive the point of the needle when the latter descends to penetrate the work, whereby said whirl operates to form a loop about the needle immediately above the hook of the latter. Thereafter,as the needle rises, the loop so formed is drawn upwardly through the work. Above the work, or at the same side thereof as the needle, is an oscillating discoidal shuttle 5 carrying a shuttle thread 6, said shuttle having a hook or beak 37, adapted when the needle rises, to en age the loop of the needle thread, remove it rom the needle hook, and pass it about the shuttle and shuttle thread. Below the work support 26 is a main-or stitch forming takeup 38 acting on the needle thread 34 and adapted to draw the needle loop over the shuttle and down upon the work, thereby completin the formation of the stitch.

Above the ta cup 38, and within the horn 26, is a second takeup or stitch setter 39 adapted, after the formation of the stitch, to set the latter and draw the thread locks into the material. The needle thread 34 is held for the action of the takeup 38 and stitch setter 39 by a thread clamp designated as a whole in Figure 1 by the numeral 40, and is drawn from a suitable supply (not shown) in measured quantities for each stitch by a combined pull-off and thread-measuring device 42. The thread clamp is located between the supply and the pull-off, and between the pull-off and takeup is awax pot 41 through which the thread is guided in its passage from the former to the latter. During the formation and setting of each stitch, the work is clamped upon the horn 26 by a presser foot 43, and between the formation of successive stitches said work is fed along the line of the seam by means of a feed point or. awl 44, which serves also to perforate or incise the work to facilitate the passage of the needle therethrough. The inst-rumentalities above referred to are all actuated from a main horizontal shaft 45 journalled in the head 28 and a vertical cam shaft 46 journalled in the upright 27 and operatively connected with the main shaft 45 by spiral gears 47. The main shaft 45 receives power from any suitable source through a pulley 48 loosely mounted on said shaft and adapted to be connected therewith by means of a clutch 49 operated, through suitable connections, by a treadle lever 50 at the base of the machine. If desired, the clutch 49 may have associated therewith a suitable stop mechanism adapted to stop the machine in the position shown in Figures 2 and 3 when the clutch treadle is released. Such stop mechanism, being well known, is not shown in detail herein.

Horn and looper.

The horn 26, as is usual in machines of thissetter. The tip of the horn forms a work support which is pierced at 53 to admit the passage of the needle'therethrough. Said horn tip is made of relatively small area and quite thin in vertical dimension, so as to permit it to be inserted in the toe of a small shoe and move freely therein. In order that said tip may be as thin as possible, the looper or whirl 32 is made in the form of a relatively thin, flat disk, having formed about its periphery, at its upper side, bevel gear teeth 54 which mesh with cooperating teeth 55 formed on the upper end of a shaft 56 journalled in the upper portion 26 of the horn. At 57 and 58 is shown a pair of/bevel cars which connect the lower end of the sha t 56fwith the adjacent upper end of a shaft 59 j ournalled in the lower portion 26 of the horn below the elbow therein. The lower end of the shaft 59 is provided with a bevel gear 60 which meshes with a gear 61 mounted on the upper end of a shaft 62, which is disposed substantially coaxially with the journal portion of the horn and is rotatably mounted therein. At its lower end, theshaft 62 is provided with a pinion 63 meshing with a gear 64 journalled in a bracket 65 secured to the front of the base 25. Secured to the gear 64 is a co-axial pinion 66 meshing with a rack formed on the front end of a bar 67 guided for longitudinal reciprocation in a substantially horizontal plane in the base 25. At its rear end the bar 67 is provided with a cam roller 68 cooperating with a groove in a cam 69 carried on the shaft 46. It will thus be seen that reciprocation of the rod 67 by the cam 69 will cause the shaft 62 to be oscillated through the gears 63, 64, 66, which oscillation will be transmitted through the shafts 59, 56 to the whirl 32.

The needle or cop thread 84, after leaving i the take-up 38, passes longitudinally through an axial passage in the shaft 62, thence about a guide pin or roller 89 in the hollow base 52 of the horn, and thence, about apair of guide rollers 90 at the elbow of the horn, to the thread opening in the whirl.

In the use of a rotatable horn provided with an oscillating whirl it is desirable that said whirl always occupy the same angular position with respect to the needle at the same point in the cycle of operations of the machine, irrespective of the angular position of the horn upon its axis of rotation. To this end, and in accordance with the present invention, the transmission devices for connecting the whirl with its coaxial actuating men1- ber or gear 61 at the base of the horn are so designed as to bear a" substantially proportionate ratio to said whirl and member respec-v tively, whereby rotation of said horn on its axis, and consequently bodily revolution of the transmission devices about said member 61, will result in a similar revolution of said devices about said whirl without rotating the latter except as the member..61 is rotated. Thus, in the construction shown, the gears 57 and 58 are made of equal size, so that the shafts 56 and 59 will rotate at the same speed, while the tooth ratio of the gear 60to the gear 61 is made substantially equal to the tooth ratio of the gear to the gear 54. For example, if the gear be formed with one-half the number of teeth of the gear 61, the gear 55 may be formed with one-half the number of teeth of the gear 54, so that, if the gear 61 remain stationary, and the horn be turned through a complete circle, the gears 60 and 55 will each make two complete rotations in I travelling about the gears 61 and 54 respectively, thereby permitting and causing'the whirl 32 also to remain stationary. It has been convenient, and is therefore customary, in machines of this character, to form the whirl 32 with fourteen teeth 54 and the shaft 56 with six teeth 55, and this ratio (namely 7 to 3) is, in accordance with the preferred form of the present invention, made substantially the same in the gears 61 and 60, the former gear being provided with twenty-eight teeth and the latter with twelve.

Needle operating mechanism.

Shuttle cmrl sku ttle operating mechanism.

The shuttle 5 is carried by a shuttle case which. is mounted on a slide 76 guided in ways 104 on the under side of the head 28 for movement in the direction of the axis of the shuttle and case. The shuttle case 7 5 is disposed with its' forward face slightly inclined to the path of movement of the needle, and when the slide 76 is in its normal position the lower edge of said case is in close proximity to said path, just sufficient clearance being provided to permit the needle to pass. The shuttle loosely fits the interior of the shuttle case 75 and is formed at its outer edge with a flange 77 guided in a rabbet'7 8 formed in said edge, being held in position therein by means of segmental gibs 79 having flanges which are detachably secured to the side walls of the shuttle case by screws 80. The shuttle is oscillated about its longitudinal axis by means of a shuttle shaft 81 journalled in the slide 76, said shaft extending at its forward end into the shuttle case 75 and being provided with a finger 82 which engages a notch 83 in the shuttle. The shuttle shaft 81 carries an elongated pinion 84 which meshes with a segmental rack 85, carried by a lever 86 pivoted intermediate its ends to the head 28, and carrying at its upper end a camroll 87 cooperating with a cam 88 on the shaft 45. By means of this mechanism, the shuttle 5 is periodically oscillated upon its axis to cooperate with the needle, as hereinafter more fully described.

As in my prior application No. 491,897 above referred to, the shuttle 5 is constructed to act also as a bobbin, and to this end is formed with a detachable cover 91 having a central hollow post 92 extending into the interior of the shuttle substantially axially needle hook,

thereof and upon which the cop of shuttle thread 6 is directly supported, thereby avoiding the necessity of a separate bobbin and bobbin case and permitting a greater quantity of shuttle thread to be received within a shuttle of a given size. The cover 91 is detachably secured to the front of the shuttle by means of projecting ears 93 formed on said cover which are received in notches 94 on the front of the shuttle and are adapted to pass into undercut grooves 95, formed in the wall of the shuttle and communicating with the notches 94, when said cover is given a partial turn about its axis.

The shuttle thread 6 is drawn from the center of the cop within the shuttle and passes through an axial thread opening 96 formed in the back of the shuttle. Tension is applied to said thread by means of a plunger 97 guided in the inner end of the hollow post 92 and disposed coaxially therewith and with the thread opening 96, said plunger engaging the thread adjacent said opening. The plunger 97 is backed by a spring 3 which is retained within the cavity in the post 92 and whose tension may be adjusted by a screw plug 4.

As above stated, the shuttle 5 is formed with a loop taking hook or beak 37, said hook or beak projecting slightly beyond the frontface of the shuttle at the edge thereof. By reason of the inclination of the front face of the shuttle case and shuttle, as above described, when the shuttle is oscillated the hook or beak 37, when at the lower edge of the shuttle crosses the path of movementof the needle 31, but when at the upper edge of Elie shuttle passes at one side of the needle When, therefore, the shuttle is turned forwardly, as indicated in Figure 4, the beak 37 enters the loop of needle thread 34 drawn up by the needle and, lifting it from the carries it to the top of the shuttle, whereupon said loop is drawn over the shuttle by the takeup 38 above referred to.

In order to permit the shuttle book 37 thus to take the needle loop directly from the nee dle without the use of an intermediate loop spreader, and to insure the proper cooperation of the parts, the shuttle case is provided with a stationary loop engaging beak or point 2 oppositely the shuttle hook 37, and cooperating with the latter intaking the needle loop from the needle. In the construction shown, the point 2 is formed on one of the gibs 79, the end (see Fig. 11) of which is bevelled to correspond with the inclined edge 101 of the opening in the bottom of the shuttle case through which the loop is drawn. The shuttle flange 77 is cut away adjacent the shuttle hook 37 to provide a gap 102 through which the rear leg of the needle loop passes to and about the rear of the shuttle, the forward leg of disposed with respect to said loop being drawn over the front face of the shuttle. It will thus be seen that when the shuttle beak 37 moves towards the point 2, said point 2 will hold and open the loop so as to cause'the shuttle beak 37 to enter the same properly instead of merely pushing the same from the needle hook, the inclined edge 101 thereafter further opening the loop and causing the rear leg thereof to pass about the shuttle. 1n orderto facilitate the taking of the loop from the needle, the latter is preferably dipped slightly at the instant that the shuttle hook enters the loop, thereby loosening the loop and permitting the same to be readily spread and removed from the needle. It will also be observed that the shuttle case comprises an annular member which is sub stantially continuous with the exception of the loop receiving opening or gap at its lower side, with which the gap 102 in the shuttle flange registers at the time the loop is taken. lt will therefore be seenthat, as the points .37 and 2 are relatively moved toward and past each other into and through the loop to take the latter from the needle hook, the shuttle flange 77 will close the gap in the circumference of the shuttle case and thereby confine the inner leg of the needle loop within said case until said loop has passed entirely about the shuttle.

The slide 76 by which the shuttle case and shuttle are carried is'normally locked in its forward position, in order to cause the shuttle to cooperate with the needle as above.eX plaine'd, by means of a suitable latch 103 carried by the head 28 or by a suitable bracket secured thereto. The exact forward position of the shuttle is determined by an abutment screw 105 carried by the slide 76 and engaging the end of the guide 104, adjustment of said screw permitting the exact position of the shuttle to be varied slightly in order to secure the most efficient operation. The latch 103 may be released to permit the slide 76 to be moved rearwardly in the guide 104 by means of a finger piece or hand lever 106 pivoted to the head 28 and having a bifurcated end engaging a pin 107 on said slide. Such movement of the slide moves the shuttle and shuttle case away from the needle, rendering the same more readily accessible for the purpose of changing shuttles or renewing the shuttle thread. It will be observed that the front of the shuttle caseis open, permitting ready removal of the shuttle upon removal of the gibs 79, while the open side of the shuttle itself is also toward the front, being normally closed by the readily detachable cover 91. The pinioni84 is preferably of a sufficient width to remain in mesh with the rack 85 during the longitudinal movement of the slide 76 thereby permitting operation of said slide without disturbing the operative connections.

Takeup.

The takeup 38 comprises a roller carried by a rod 108 suitably guided for longitudinal movement in a substantially horizontalplane roller 110 cooperating with a cam 111 on the shaft 46. The takeup roller 38 engages the needle thread 34 between two stationary guide rollers 112, said takeup roller 35 being movable between the rollers112, thereby deflecting said thread from its normal path and exerting a pull upon the same. As above stated, the takeup 38 is operated to pull the needle'loop over the shuttle and down substantially to the work, the stitch setter 39 thereafter acting to set the stitch and pulling the thread locks Z into the material tothe desired extent, as shown in Fig. 12. The throw or stitch setting pull of the stitch setter 39 is preferably constant in amount, and, in order to determine the depth to which the thread locks Z are set in the material, means are preferably provided for adjusting or varying the effective action of the takeup 38 and thereby determining the condition of the stitch at the time of the operation of the stitch setter. To this end the guide rollers 112 are carried by slides 113 (see Fi s. 18 and 19) guided for movement toward .and from the takeup roller 38 and toward and from each other in a bracket 114 secured to the front of the base 25. For simultaneously adjusting the slides 113 and guide, rollers 112, there is preferably provided a vertical rod 115 jou'rnalled at its ends in the bracket 114, and having right and left threads engaging the slides 113 respectively, said rod having squared ends 116 whereby the same may be readily turned. The movement of the takeup 38 is a relatively slow and gradual one as compared to the quick stitch setting snap of the stitch setter 39.

' Stitch setter.

Upon the completion of the stitch by the stitch forming devices and takeup, the stitch setter 39 acts to give the thread a short, sharp jerk, corresponding very closely to the snap given to the thread in hand sewing, and serving to set the locks of the stitches within the stock to an extent determinedby the adjustment of the takeup, as abovedescribed. In

. orderto accomplish this result in a satisfacstated, are located at the elbow of the horn, and deflect said thread out of its normal path between said rollers by a movement transverse to said path. To this end the roller 39 is carried by a rod 117 guided for longitudinal movement in the lower portion 26 of the horn and pivotally connected at its lower end' to a lever 118 located within the hollow .base 52 and fulcrumed at its oppo-' site end upon a fixed stud 119 therein. The lever 118 is connected intermediate its ends by a link 120 with the upper end of a vertical rod 121 guided for longitudinal movement in the 'ournal portion 30 of the born at one side of t e shaft 62. The rod 121 is provided at its lower end with a notch 122 engaging the edge of a circular opening 123, concentric with the shaft 62, .in a cross-head 124, said cross-head having a stem 125 guided for vertical movement in the bearing 29. The stem 125 is formed with a recess which receives cooperating with a cam 127 on the shaft 46. The rod 121, cross-head 124, and lover 126 may, if desired, be substantially similar to the corresponding parts shown in my prior application #491,897 above referred to. The stitch setter 39 may be, and preferably is, given a movement to assist the takeup 38 in the formation of the stitch, thereby decreasing the necessary range of movement of the takeup. Such movement of the stitch setter, if employed, ishowever, a relatively slow one, corresponding with the movement of the takeup, the stitch setting movement thereof being a relatively short and quick one as compared to that of the takeup as above explained. It will be observed that the takeup 38 and stitch setter 39 are both in the form of rollers over which the thread renders freely as distinguished from thread gripping devices which have been found to injure the thread, the thread in the present instance being held for the action of the takeup and stitch setting rollers by the main thread clamp 40. I

Thread clamp and thread mwaswer. The thread clamp 40 comprises relatively fixed and movable thread gripping members 128 and129 (see Figure 16) carried respectively by the base 25 and by a longitudinally reci rocating rod 130 guided formovement in base. The movable thread gripping member 129 is loosely mounted on the rod and is yieldingly pressed toward the stationary member 128 by light springs 131 surrounding rods 132 projecting from said stationary member and extending through openings in the member 129, said springs being interposed between the member 1.29 and nuts 133 on the threaded ends of saidrods. By

means of the springs 131 the thread gripping V. I

member 129 is caused to exert a light tension upon the thread 34, when the thread clamp is operated to release its positive grip upon the thread, thereby preventing undue looseness of the latter. The movable thread gripping member 129 is engaged by an abutment in the form of a crosshead 134 rigidly secured to the end of the rod 130, said crosshead being operated to force the member 129 toward the member 128 with a substantially positive thread-gripping pressure by means of a relatively strong spring 135 surrounding the rod 130 and interposed between a collar 136on said rod and the wall of the base 25. The rod 130 is operated to cause the abut- 'ment 134 to release its positive clamping pressure upon the member 129 by means of a cam 137 on the shaft 46, said cam acting upon the end of the rod 130 through 'intrumentalities hereinafter described.

The thread engaging surfaces of the grip-, ping members 128 and 129 may be of considerable extent, so that the clamp may exert a substantially positive locking action on the thread without materially crushing, distorting, or mutilating the latter, as is the case with the thread engaging members of stitch setters andtakeups of the thread gripping type, which members must be relatively small, and which therefore bite into and damage the thread to an objectionable extent, instead of distributing the clamping pressure, as in the present mechanism.

The thread measuring pull-01f is located immediately adjacent the thread clamp and o erates upon the thread 34 immediately a or said thread leaves said thread clamp. Said pull-off comprises a thread-engaging I member or finger 138 carried by or formed on the crosshead 134 and having a thread-receiv ing opening 139 which is normally in alinement with thread-receiving openings 140 in stationary thread uides 141 carried b the base 25 and locate on opposite sides 0 said finger 138 immediately adjacent the same. Longitudinal movement of the rod 130 by the cam 137 causes the thread opening 139 to be moved out'of alinement with the thread openings 140, thereby pulling through the thread clamp (which is opened by saidlongitudinal movement of the rod 130) an amount ofthread determined by the extent of such movement.

In order that the operation of the rod 130 by the cam 137 may be proportional to the thickness ofthe work, the cam 137 is caused to act upon the rod 130 through a lever 142 (see Figure 17 engaged by said cam and pivotally connected at 143 to the base 25, said lever engaging a Wedge 144 having a 4 grooved end of a rod 145 (see Figure 1) pivotally con edge toreceive the rounded end of the rod 130. The wedge 144 is carried by the lower nected at itsup er end to a lever 146 fulcrumed upon a racket 147 carried by the head 28, said lever being pivotally connected at its opposite end to the presser foot bar 148 which carries the presser foot 43. It will thus be seen that the position of the wedge 144, and the consequent amount of movement of the rod 130 by the cam 137, will be determined by the vertical position of the presser foot 43, which, in turn, is controlled y the thickness of the work A.

In order that the amount of thread drawn from the supply by the thread-measuring pull-0E at each operation may be caused also to correspond to the length of the stitch, the bracket 147 is adjustable longitudinally of the lever 146 to vary the fulcrum point of the latter, this adjustment being manually made when the feeding mechanism, hereinafter described, is adjusted to vary the length of the stitch. In the construction shown, the

Presser foot.

The presser foot 43 is carried by the presser foot bar 148, and is normally pressed toward the work by a heavy torsion spring 150 carried by a rod 151'supported at its ends in brackets 152 and 153 secured to the top of the head 28, said spring engaging at one end a stud 154 carried by the presser foot bar 148 and being secured at its opposite end to an adjusting member 155 by means of which the tension of said spring may be adjusted. The presser foot 43, as shown in Figures 4, 6, and 20, is so shaped aspartly to surround the feed point 44 and the path of the needle 31,

and therefore to engage the work about the stitch forming point, and the spring 150 is of a strength sufficient to cause said presser foot to exert upon the work a clamping pressure which will compress said work to an appreciable extent (as shown in Figures 4 and 6) insufficient, however, to consolidate the same or destroy the elasticity thereof. This heavy pressure is maintained while the stitch is being formed and set, so that when said pressure'is relieved the elasticity of the material will result in a; still further tightening 157 cooperating with a face cam surface on the cam 73. At its opposite end the lever 156 engages an adjustable abutment screw 158 carried by a collar 159'secured to the presser foot bar 148. The extent to which the presser foot is lifted at each operation is controlled by adjustment of the abutment screw Inn 158, a certain amount of lost motion being, however, permitted between said screw and the lever 156 in order to permit the presser foot, under the influence of the spring 150, to adapt itself to the thickness of the stock. I

The presser font may be lifted by the operator, in order to ermit insertion and removal of the work, y means of a lever 160 fulcrumed upon the bracket 152 and engaging at its forward end' an opening in the presser foot bar 148, said lever being operated, through suitable connections, by a treadle le- Ver 161 at the base of the machine.

Guided in suitable ways on the under side of the presser foot 43 (see Figures 4, 6, and is a sole edge guide 162, said edge guide being secured in adjusted position by means ofa screw 163 which passes through a slot 164 in the presser foot.

Feeding mechanism.

The feed point44 is suitably secured to the lower end of a feed foot 165. As shown in Figures 14 and 15, said feed point is formed with a cutting edge 166 arranged transverse I and preferably oblique to the line of feed and,

' above said cutting edge 166, with a shoulder forming a cutting or indenting edge 167 dis posed longitudinally or in the direction of the line of feed. The cutting edge 166, which extends beyond the edge 167, is arranged to incise the work for the passage of the needle 167, which is of a length at least equal to that of the longest stitch, is adapted, upon successive operations of the feed point, to cut, indent, or otherwise form a substantially continuous, channel 169 in the face of the work (in the present instance in the outer face of the outer sole g) to receive the seam, and, in particular, the shuttle thread 6.

Referring particularly to Figures 3. and 7 to 10, inclusive, the feed foot 165 is secured to or forms a part of a carrieror slide 170 guided for movement toward and from the work in a feed slide 171 which, in turn,-is guided for lateral movement on the frame of the head 28 or, preferably, in a bracket 172 secured thereto and depending therefrom..

The slide 171 is provided in its rear face adjacent one end with a vertical groove 195 to receive a stud 196.having a head received in a longitudinal groove in an arm 197 and held in adjusted position therein by a set screw 198'. The arm 197 is formed on a sleeve 199 (see also Fig. 2) loosely mounted on a shaft 183 which is journalled in bearings 184 on the machine head 28. The sleeve 199 is formed with a second arm 200 which carries a cam 202 on the main shaft 45. It will thus be seen that oscillation of the arm 197 by the cam 202 will produce a positive lateral move ment of the feed slide 171 and feed point 44 to feed the work when said feed point 44 is in engagement therewith. The amount of such lateral'feeding movement, and consequently the length of the stitcheswill be determined by7the' adjustment of the stud 196 on the arm 19 v The slide 17 O is moved in the slide 171 to cause the feed point 44 to engage and incise or penetrate the work and to disengage the same by means of a bell crank 173 pivoted at 17 4 in a recess in the rear face of an enlarged portion 176 of the presser foot bar 148. One arm of the bell crank lever 173 is bifurcated to engage a block 175 pivoted to the slide or carrier 170, while the oppositearm of said lever has journalled therein a stud- 177 which extends through a slot in the portion 176 of the presser foot bar. The stud has an enlarged head 178 which is received in a vertical groove in the rear face of a slide. 17 9 guided for lateral movement in ways formed in the front of the portion 17 6 of the presser foot bar. It will be seen that lateral movement of the slide 179 will result, through the bell crank lever 173, in a vertical movement of the feed point carrier 170. The slide 179 is provided in its rear face adjacent one end with a vertical groove 180 to receive a stud 181 having a head received in a longitudinal groove in an arm 182 and secured 'in adjusted position therein by a set screw 184. It will be seen that a constant oscillation of the arm 182 will result in a reciprocation of the slide 17 9, the amplitude of which will be determined by the adjust ment of the stud 181 on said arm. By ad usting said stud the range of movement of the feed point toward and from. the work may be varied, such range, however, being constant for a given adjustment. The arm 182 is fast on the shaft 183, which shaft has fast thereon a second arm 185having an off-set portion 186 extended into the path of movement of a third arm 187 loose on said shaft and carrying a cam roller 188 (see Figs. 3 and 10) cooperating with a cam 189 (see Fig. 2) on the main shaft 45. The arm 187 vis formed with an its'outer end with a head 192 engaging the outer face of the'ofiset portion. Said head the amount of lost motion between the arms 18 5 and 187. may be adjusted. Surrounding the pin 191, and interposed between the arm 187 and the offset portion 186 of the arm 185 is a spring 193, the adjacent portion of the arm 187 surrounding the pin 191 being prefer- 7 ably recessed to receive the end ofsaid spring. Outward movement of the arm 187 will be followed by a corresponding outward movement of the arm 185, and a movement of the feed point ettoward the work, until said feed point encounters a resistance sufficient to cause the spring 193 to be compressed, whereupon the abutment 190 will engage the offset 186, and the remaining portion of the movement of the feed point to penetrate the work will be a positive one. Inasmuch, however, as the lever 17 3 is carried by the presser foot bar and therefore movable with the presser foot, lifting of the latter would tend to disengage the feed point from the work. When the presser foot rises, however, the spring 198 again expands, causing the feed point to remain in its depressed position. Upon inward movement of the arm 1'87, engagement of the head 192 with the offset 186 will cause a positive inward movement of the arm 185 and a positive withdrawal of the feed point from the work.

It will thus be seen that the mechanism above described provides a four-motion feed in which all of the movements are positively effected. It will also be seen, however, that notwithstanding the positive actuation of the feed point, the latter is permitted to remain in engagement with the work when the presser foot is lifted, although the mechanism for moving the feed point toward and from the work is carried and controlled by the posiion of the presser foot. The latter provision is an important one inasmuch as it causes the work penetrating movements of the feed point to be controlled by the position of the presser foot and consequently by the thickness of the work. Asabove explained, a given adjustment of the stud 181 on the arm 182 will result in a work penetrating movement of the feed point of constant length, but the limits of this movement, and particularly the starting point thereof, will be varied in accordance with the thickness of the work, thereby causing the feed point to penetrate the .work to a constant extent, and form a channel 169 of constant depth, irrespective of the thickness of the work.

Operation 0 f the machine.

The complete cycle of operations of the machine will now be briefly reviewed. In Figures 2, 3, and 6 the parts are shown in the scends, the feed point, which at this time is out of engagement with the work, moves backward out of the path of the needle into a position to engage the work at a new point. When the needle reaches its lowermost position, as shown in Fig. 5, the whirl is rotated to form a loop about said needle. At this time the taken p 38 is given a slight forward movement to insure sufficient slack for the'operation of the whirl. The whirl remains in position into which it has been turned until the needle has fully risen, after which it is returned to its normal position. As the needle rises it draws the loop upwardly through the material, and. during this movement the takeup and stitch setter are both moved forwardly into the positions shown in Fig. 1, to release the necessary amount of thread for this purpose. During the latter part of this movement the thread clamp is opened and the pull-off operated to draw from the supply, through said thread clamp, a measured quantity of thread under the light tension afforded at this time by the clamp, said parts being subsequently returned to normal position to again lock the thread and release the amount pulled off. When the needle has reached its uppermost position (as shown in Fig. l) the takeupand stitch setter remain stationary in the positions shown in Figure l, and the shuttle commences to turn forwardly, or in a eounterclock-wise direction from the position shown in Fig. 3 into that shown in Fig. 4 to cause the beak 37 thereof to take the loop from the needle, as above described, the needle being at this time dipped to facilitate this operation. The rotation of the shuttle is continued, and when it has moved approximately 180 farther, and thereby brought the loop to the top, thereof, the takeup 38 moves backwardly to draw the loop over the shuttle, this operation being preferably assisted by a simultaneous retraction of the stitch setter 39. After the stitch has been drawn down upon the surface of the material to an extent determined by the adjustment of the guide rollers 112, the operation of the take up is stopped and the stitch setter given a final quick movement to set the stitch, as above explained. When the loop has been drawn over the shuttle, the latter is turned back into its normal position, the needle being at this time in its uppermost position, so that the crossing of the path of the needle by the shuttle hook on its return movement is not interfered with.

During the latter part of the stitch forming operation, the feed point is depressed to engage and penetrate the work, and the presser the presser foot the feedpoint rises and the cycle of operations is completed. v

Certain parts of the machine above de- Leeamse scribed are not claimed herein, being covered by the claims of other applications filed by me as follows :as to the shuttle and shuttle operating mechanism; Serial Nos. 594,457 and 595,266, filed October 14 and 18 respectively, 1922; as to the awl and work feeding mechanism; Serial No. 600,224, filed November 11,

1922; and as to the takeup mechanism; Serial No. 647,286, filed June 23, 1923.

What I claim is: I

1. A look stitch shoe sewing machine inclu ding, in combination, a straight hook needle and a shuttle having provision for supplying a shuttle thread, both located on one side of the work, and on the other side of the work a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a rotatable looper carried by the tip of said horn and adapted to form a loop about the hooked end of said needle, a cam actuated takeup and a cam actuated stitch setter adapted respectively for drawing the needle loop over the shuttle and setting the stitch, anda, thread clamp cooperating with said takeup and stitch setter.

2. A look stitch shoe sewing machine in-- quick movement. I

cluding, in combination, a straight hook needle and a shuttle having provision for supplying a shuttle thread, both located on' one side of the work, and on the other side of the work a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a rotatable looper carried by the tip of the horn, a cam actuated takeup, a cam actuated stitch setter, and a thread clamp for the looper thread, said stitch setter being located between the thread clamp and the work and having a smooth surface over which the thread can render.

3. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine in cluding, in combination, a straight hook needle, a shuttle having provision for supplying a shuttle thread, a presser foot, a feed point, and means controlled byithe presser foot to cause said feed point to penetrate the work to a constant depth, all located on one side of the work, and on the other side of-the work a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a rotatable looper carried by the tip of said horn and adapted to form a loop aboutthe hooked end of said needle, a cam actuated takeup and a cam actuated stitch setter adapted respectively to draw the needle loop over the shuttle andsetthe stitch, and a thread clamp cooperatlng with said takeup and stitch setter.

4. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine including, in combination, a straight hook needle and a shuttle having provision for supplying a shuttle thread, both located on one side of the work, and on the other side of the work a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a rotatable looper carried by the tip of the horn and adapted to form a loop about the hooked end of said needle, a cam' actuated takeup for needle and a shuttle havin supplying a shuttle thread, 0th located on one side of the work and on the other side supplying a shuttle thread, both located on one side of the work, and on the other side of the work a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a rotatable looper carried by the tip of said horn and adapted to form a loop about the hooked end of said needle, a takeup and a stitch setter adapted respectively to draw the needle loop over the shuttle and set the stitch, a thread clamp for holding the thread for the action of said takeup and stitch setter, and actuating mechanism for said taken and stitch setter-adapted togive said ta eup a long and relatively slow movement and thereafter to give said stitch setter a relatively short 6. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine including, in combination, a straight hook provision for ofthe work a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a looper carried by the tip ofthe horn and adapted to form a loop about the hooked end of the needle, a cam actuated takeup for drawing the needle loop over the shuttle, a cam actuated stitch setter between the work and the takeup, and a thread measurer forsupplying a measured quantity of thread to form the needle loop. l

7 .'A look stitch shoe sewing machine including, in combination, a straight hook needle and a shuttle havin provision for supplying a shuttle thread, 0th located on one side of the work, and on the other side of the work a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a vrotatable looper carried by the tip of said horn and adapted to formaloop about the hooked end of the needle, a cam actuated takeup and a cam actuated stitch setter adapted respectively for drawing the needle loop over the shuttle and setting the stitch, a thread clam for holding the thread for the action 0 said takeup and stitch setter, and a thread measurer for drawing a measured quantity of.

thread. through said thread clamp.

8. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine having a straight hook needle and a shuttle to supply a shuttle thread on one side of the work, and on the other side of the work a I a loop about the hooked end of said needle, a takeup for drawing the needle loop over the shuttle, a stitch setter between the work and the takeup, a thread clamp for holding the thread for the action of said takeup and stitch setter, said thread clamp being located at the opposite side of said takeup from said stitch setter and work, and a thread measuring pull-off between said takeup and thread clamp.

9. A look stitch shoe sewing machine including, in combination, a straight hook needle and a shuttle having provision for supplying a shuttle thread, both located on one side of the work, and at the other side of the Work a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a looper carried by the tip of the horn and adapted to form a: loop about the hooked end of the needle, an adjustable takeup for drawing the needle loop over the shuttle, and a constant throw stitch setter for drawing the thread locks into the material a distance determined by the adjustment of said takeup.

10. A lock stitch shoe sewing mechine comprising, in combination, a straight hook needle, a shuttle having provision for supplying a shuttle thread, a presser foot, feeding mechanism, a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a rotatable looper carried by the tip of said horn and adapted to form a loop about the hooked end of said needle, a cam actuatedtakeup anda cam actuated stitch setter adapted respectively to draw the needle loop over the shuttle and set the stitch, and mechanism for causing said presser foot to subject the work on said horn to a heavy pressure while the stitch is set and to lift said presser foot when said feeding mechanism is operatedto feed the work.

11. A look stitch shoe sewing mechine including, in combination, a straight hook needle and a shuttle having provision for supplying a shuttle thread, both located on one si e of the work, and on the other side of the work, a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a looper carried by the tip of the horn and adapted to form a loop about the hooked end of the needle, a cam actuated takeup for drawing the needle loop over the shuttle, said takeup being located below said horn, and a cam actuated stitch setter located within said horn above the bottom thereof.

12. A lock stitch shoe sewing, machine including, in combination, a straight hook needle and a shuttle having provision for supplying a shuttle thread, both located on one side of the work, and on the other side of the work, a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a rotatable looper carried by the tip of said horn and adapted to form a loop about the hooked end of the needle, a cam actuated takeup for drawing the needle loop over the shuttle, said takeup being located below said horn, a cam actuated stitch setter located within said horn above the bottom thereof, and a thread clamp below said takeup for holding the-thread for the action of said takeup and stitch setter.

13. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine. including, in combination, a straight hook needle and a shuttle having provision for supplyinga shuttle thread, both located on one side of the work, and on the other side of the work, a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a looper carried by the tip of the horn and adapted to form a loop about the hook end of the needle, mechanism for drawing back a loop of needle thread and setting the stitch, a thread lock against which the stitch is set, athreadmeasurer in addition to the other elements of the combination, and means for actuating the thread measurer to supply a quantity of thread for each stitch varying with the thickness of the work.

14. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine in eluding, in'combination, a straight hook needle and a shuttle having provision for supplying a shuttle thread, both located on one side of the work, and on the other side of the work, a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a looper carried by the tip of the horn and adapted to form a loop about the hook end of the needle, a presser foot to force the work against the horn, mechanism for drawing back a loop of needle thread and setting the stitch, a thread lock against which the stitch is set, a thread measurer in addition to the other elements of the combination, and connections from the presser foot for controlling the thread mea urer to supply a quantity of thread for each stitch varying with the thickness of the work.

' 15. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming instrumentalities, a rotatable horn constituting a work support, a takeup cooperating with said stitch-forming instrumentalities in forming the stitch, and a takeup for setting said stitch, one of said takeups being mounted in said horn and rotatable therewith, said last named takeup being operative regardless of the angular position of said horn.

16. In a shoe sewing machine. a work supporting horn having a. rotatably mounted base, a looper carried by said horn, means for actuating said looper including a shaft extending through said base substantially axially thereof, a takeup in said horn, means for operating said takeup including a member extending through said base at one side of said shaft, and an actuating member be low said base constructed to permit the passage of said shaft therethrough and having means providing continuous engagement with said takeup operating member irrespective of the angular position of said, horn.

17. In a shoe sewing machine, a work supporting horn having a. rotatably mounted base, a looper carried by said horn, means for actuating said looper including a shaft extending through said base substantially axially thereof, a takeup in said horn, means for operating said takeup including a rod extending through said base at one side of said shaft and provided below said base with a notch, a crosshead below said base and having a circular opening concentric with said shaft to permit the same. to pass therethrough, the edge of said opening engaging said notch, and means for reciprocating said crosshead.

18. A look stitch shoe sewing machine having a straight hook needle and a shuttle to supply a shuttle thread on one side of the work, and on the other side of the work a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a looper carried by the tip of the horn and adapted to form a loop about the hooked end of the needle, a takeup for drawing the needle loop over the shuttle, and a stitch setter between the work and the takeup. V 1

19. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine having a straight hook needle and a shuttle to supply a shuttle thread on one side of the work, and on the other side thereof a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a rotatable looper carried by the tip of said horn and adapted to form a loop about the hooked end of said needle, a takeup disposed below said horn for drawing the needle loop over the shuttle, and a stitch setter between the work and the takeup.

20. A lock stitch shoe sewing machine having a straight hook needle and a shuttle to supply a shuttle thread on one side of the work, and on the other side of the work a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a rotatable looper carried by the tip of said horn and'adapted to form a loop about the hooked end of said needle, a takeup and a stitch setter adapted respectively to draw the needle loop over the shuttle and set the stitch, and actuating mechanism for said takeup and stitch setter arranged to give the takeup a long and relatively slow movement and the stitch setter a relatively quick, sharp movement.

21. A look stitch shoe sewing machine having a straight hook needle and a shuttle to supply a shuttle thread on one side of the work, said shuttle having a hook lying in front of the plane of the face of the shuttle and adapted to take the loop directly from the needle hook, and on the other side of the work a rotatable horn piercedat its end for the passage of the needle, a rotatable looper carried bythe tip of said horn, and a cam actuated takeup and a cam actuated stitch setter adapted respectively to draw the needle loop over the shuttle and set the stitch.

22. A look stitch shoe sewing machine having a straight hook needle, a shuttle to supply a shuttle thread, a shuttle case, said shuttle having a hook lying in front of the plane of the face of the shuttle and adapted to take the loop directly from the needle and the shuttle case having an opposing hook, said needle, shuttle and shuttle case being located at one side of the work; and on the other side of the work a. rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a rotatable looper carried by the tip of said horn and adapted to form a loop about the hooked end of said needle, and a cam actuated takeup and a cam actuated stitch setter adapted respectively to draw the needle loop over the shuttle and set the stitch- 23. A lock'stitch shoe sewing machine having a straight hook 'needle, a shuttle to supply a shuttle thread, and means for applying tension to said shuttle thread, said parts being located on one side of the Work, and on the other side of the work a rotatable horn pierced at its end for the passage of the needle, a looperfcarried by the tip of the horn and adapted to form a loop of needle thread about the hooked .end of the needle, means for applying tension to said needle thread, and cam actuated takeup and cam actuated stitchsetting mechanism acting on .said needle thread to pull the needle loop over the shuttle and thereafter set the stitch.

24. In a lock stitch sewing machine the combination with stitch forming mechanism, of a stitch forming takeup cooperating with said stitch forming mechanism in the formation of the stitches, and a stitch setting takeup for setting the stitches, said stitch forming takeup being adjustableto vary the effective action of said stitch setting takeup.

25. In a shoe sewing machine, in combination, stitch forming devices, a rotatably mounted work supporting horn, and a plurality of takeups cooperating-with said stitch forming devices in forming the stitch and setting the same, one of said takeups being located below said horn, and the other of said takeups being located in said horn above the bottom thereof and in proximity to said stitch forming devices.

26. In a shoe sewing machine, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle and a shuttle, a takeup for drawing the needle thread over the shuttle, a rotatably mounted work supporting horn, and a second takeup for setting said stitch after the formation thereof, Said last named takeup being located in said horn above the bottom thereof and in proximity tosaid stitch formllll! Ill) low base provided with a journal by which said horn is rotatably mounted, said horn having means for guiding the thread therethrough including a pair of guides located 5 substantially at said elbow, a rod 1ongitudinally movable in the lower portion of said horn and provided at its upper end with a takeup member engaging the thread between said guides, a lever fulcrumed in said base and to which the lower end of said rod is connected, a second longitudinally movable rod connected to said lever and extending through said journal, and means for operating said last named rod.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

JAMES H. REED. 

